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| p-rowl | Hello guys, I posted originally in the general area and was suggested to try here. I have a 2000 Prowler that won’t start if you put the key in the ignition and try to start it like you normally would. When you turn the key it was one click and nothing. I thought it was the starter, took it out and it tested fine. I then replaced all the battery cables and bought a new battery, still same problem. I see where the starter must get its ground through the engine block so I took the ground off that and cleaned where it contacts the engine block and frame rail with a grinder and still the same issue. I then took another battery cable and bolted it to one of the bolts that holds the starter to the engine block and ground that and it seemed to make a little bit of a difference (now giving two or three clicks before starting). After a few days of driving the Prowler again (This all took about 3 weeks for me to figure all this out) I noticed that if I take the key and turn it to the on position for the ignition and then put my seat belt on, then start the car it will start with no issues. I'm wondering is there an ignition coil or something that I need to look into next? Any ideas?
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| 1buddyc | Ignition Switch... |
| padroo | Try turning your headlights on and see how bright they are then try to start the car. Could be the other end of the ground cable from the battery. Usually it is a battery terminal but check the negative connection to the frame, it's cheap to do. |
| Michael Pond | Mine did that for a while. If I moved the steering wheel adjustment up or down it would start, indicating a bad connection between the ignition switch and where it connected. Pushed all the connectors together and the problem solved. |
| p-rowl | I got it figured out. It was the ignition switch. Once the new switch was put in, it fired right up without any problems. Thanks for the help guys. |
| stevedymo | Good call by Buddy... |
| Stroker | Who sells the correct starter for a 99 Prowler.
All I find have wrong nose which puts solenoid in the catalytic converter. Also heat shield won't fit.
This message has been edited by Stroker on 12-11-2015 at 10:49 AM |
| Stroker | Pictures of new mail order starter. It just wouldn't fit no matter which end I tried first. The supplier was sure it was correct. Only one listed for Prowler. Picture of solenoid contacts was problem. Cost twenty bucks installed and tested for new solenoid. We did have to destroy the old part to be sure it was bad. The starter now hits harder than before. I did notice the starter tag was turned toward the block?   [img]http://www.prowleronline.com/ubb/ima ge_uploads/img_0304_opt.jpg[/img]  [img]http:/ /www.prowleronline.com/ubb/image_uploads/SSS/snafu4.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.prowleronline.com/ubb/image_uploads/SSS/sna fu5.jpg[/img] |
| katmat | Are there any alternator/starter rebuilders in your area? If so they should be able to rebuild it for you. |
| Stroker | Starter repair shop took it apart and checked it.
Said it looked like new inside brushes ,bushings and armature o-k. I had him install new solenoid because it was sealed and couldn't be inspected. Then we opened old one and it was worn as suspected. Parts for slanteyed starters are not readily available in this area. I was lucky to find the place , it was like a trip back in time. Owner wouldn't take any payment for checking it. Said he didn't fix anything until I wanted to put on solenoid. Then twenty bucks. |
| stevedymo | OOPs This message has been edited by stevedymo on 01-25-2018 at 07:13 AM |
| mslc10 | I believe it’s called “clocking”. It’s where you can turn the nose cone to fit your application. Looks like there are two long screws that you take out and you can turn the nose 180 degrees.....would that help? This message has been edited by mslc10 on 01-25-2018 at 07:11 PM |
| 401KAT | Almost same problem...it was starter...Ordered from my local Napa...was dead on to original......jim |
